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Good Fibes: Pioneering Biodegradable Alternatives
Stretchy fabrics are everywhere, from your favorite yoga pants to that comfy pair of socks. The global spandex market, nearing $8 billion, shows no signs of slowing down, but its environmental impact is hard to ignore. Traditional spandex is made from petroleum-based fibers that shed microplastics and take centuries to decompose.
Turning to Nature: Lab-Grown Elastics
Alexis Peña and Lauren Blake, co-founders of Good Fibes, are on a mission to change this. Operating from Tufts University and Argonne National Laboratory, they are developing biodegradable textiles using silk elastin-like proteins (SELPs). These proteins are engineered to replicate the structure of natural silk and elastin, offering customizable elasticity and strength while being environmentally friendly.
The Science Behind the Stretch
Good Fibes creates its elastics from proteins derived from E. coli. This process involves converting proteins into gel-like materials, which are then made into fibers through wet-spinning. Despite the promising concept, scaling production has its challenges; it takes approximately two pounds of microbial material to create just one test fabric swatch. They are also experimenting with plant-based proteins like wheat gluten for larger-scale applications.
Challenges Ahead in Biotech Textiles
Timothy McGee, an expert in biomaterials, highlights that the transition from protein to usable fabric remains the biggest hurdle for biotextile startups. While some companies have successfully created protein-based textiles, many struggle with the manufacturing process. Good Fibes aims to follow in the footsteps of biomaterials pioneers like Spiber, which has already commercialized protein-based fabric with major brands.
Looking to the Future
Good Fibes is already making strides by securing a $200,000 grant from the U.S. Department of Energy, allowing them to experiment with 3D bioprinting for nonwoven textiles. This innovative approach could make it easier to create stretchy, breathable fabrics.
As they refine their processes, Peña and Blake plan to test their fabrics with major athletic brands, aiming for commercialization in the next two years. As Blake emphasizes, their approach of “thinking big by thinking small” could lead to a significant breakthrough in sustainable fashion, making stretchy garments kinder to our planet.
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